Planning a Trip from Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri

The route between the two lakes

The most common route is the direct cross-country track, but don't let the word 'track' fool you. It is often a dirt path that winds through riverbeds and mountain passes. It covers roughly 250 to 300 kilometres, but do not look at this in terms of driving time. A trip that takes 4 hours on a map will take 10 hours in reality.

You will pass through places like Chushul, Rezang La, and Hanle. The landscape changes constantly, from the deep blue of the lakes to the stark, lunar surface of the high desert. You are effectively driving along the border, which brings its own unique atmosphere to the journey.

Required permits for the circuit

Because this route runs close to the Line of Actual Control, paperwork is non-negotiable. You need an Inner Line Permit (ILP) that specifically covers the remote areas like Chushul, Hanle, and the area around Tso Moriri.

We handle these for our guests well in advance. If you are doing this on your own, apply for the permit in Leh at the DC office. Make sure you have at least ten printed copies. You will be asked for them at multiple checkpoints along the way, and the officers will keep one copy at each stop. Don't be the person left stranded because you forgot to print enough copies.

Typical travel time and stops

Do not try to do this in a single day. It is physically punishing and denies you the chance to actually see anything. We recommend a three-day plan: Pangong to Hanle, and then Hanle to Tso Moriri.

Hanle is a highlight. It is home to an observatory and feels like the end of the world. Stopping here allows you to rest and acclimatise properly before hitting the high passes again on the way to Tso Moriri. It breaks up the drive so you aren't spending your entire holiday in the backseat of a Bolero.

• Day 1: Pangong Tso to Chushul/Hanle (long, slow drive).
• Day 2: Explore Hanle and the observatory.
• Day 3: Hanle to Korzok (the village at Tso Moriri).

Accommodation options along the way

Expect basic, functional, and very cold. You aren't going to find luxury resorts on this circuit. Most accommodation consists of homestays or simple guest houses. The heat is usually provided by a single stove in a common room, and the electricity might be limited to a few hours in the evening.

However, staying in a local home is part of the charm. You get warm butter tea, simple food like Thukpa, and a glimpse into how the nomadic communities of the Changthang region live. It is authentic, quiet, and beautiful.

Essential preparation for remote driving

Your vehicle is your lifeline. We insist that all our vehicles on this route are 4x4s with experienced local drivers. Never attempt this in a low-clearance car. You will be crossing small streams and driving over loose rock; you need a vehicle that can take the abuse.

Carry extra fuel in jerry cans, even if your tank seems full. You will not find petrol pumps once you leave the main highway. We also pack extra rations, water, and basic tools. Being self-sufficient is the golden rule of remote Ladakh travel. If you have a flat tyre, you need to know how to change it, or have a driver who can do it in ten minutes in the wind.