The Leh–Ladakh Road Trip: Routes, Permits and Altitude
Srinagar route or Manali route, when the passes open, the permits you need, and the acclimatisation rules that make or break the trip.
Ladakh punishes bad planning more than anywhere else in India. The scenery is forgiving; the altitude is not. Get the acclimatisation right and it is one of the great road journeys on earth. Get it wrong and you spend three days with a headache in a Leh guesthouse.
The two road routes
| Srinagar–Leh | Manali–Leh | |
|---|---|---|
| Distance | 418 km | 474 km |
| Open | Roughly May–November | Roughly June–October |
| Highest pass | Fotu La, 4,108 m | Taglang La, 5,328 m |
| Acclimatisation | Gradual — much safer | Abrupt — harder on the body |
| Overnight halt | Kargil | Jispa, Sarchu or Keylong |
If you have the choice, go up via Srinagar and come down via Manali. The Srinagar route gains altitude gradually over two days with a night at Kargil at 2,676 metres, which is far kinder than Manali's rapid climb over 5,000-metre passes.
Flying in instead
Leh airport is at 3,500 metres, which means flying in takes you from near sea level to serious altitude in under two hours. If you fly, the first thirty-six hours must be spent doing essentially nothing. This is not caution — it is the single most important rule in Ladakh travel.
Permits
Leh itself needs no permit. Beyond it, Inner Line Permits are required for Indian nationals and Protected Area Permits for foreign nationals, covering Nubra, Pangong, Tso Moriri, Hanle, Turtuk and the Changthang region. They are issued in Leh, require ID copies and a small fee, and must name every destination you intend to visit.
- Apply in Leh, usually a day before you travel.
- Carry multiple photocopies — checkpoints retain them.
- Permits are destination-specific; add everything you might visit.
- Foreign nationals cannot obtain permits for certain areas and rules change — check current status before planning.
A realistic seven-day Ladakh plan
- Day 1: Arrive Leh. Rest completely. No sightseeing.
- Day 2: Gentle local day — Shanti Stupa, Leh Palace, the old town. Sort permits.
- Day 3: Monastery circuit — Thiksey, Hemis, Shey — plus Magnetic Hill and Sangam.
- Day 4: Leh to Nubra over Khardung La. Overnight Hunder.
- Day 5: Nubra — dunes, Diskit monastery, optional Turtuk. Overnight Hunder or Turtuk.
- Day 6: Nubra to Pangong via Shyok, or back via Leh. Overnight Pangong.
- Day 7: Pangong to Leh via Chang La. Depart next morning.
Altitude sickness: what to actually do
- Drink three to four litres of water daily.
- No alcohol for the first forty-eight hours.
- Eat light. Heavy meals make altitude worse.
- Ascend slowly and sleep low where you can.
- Mild headache and breathlessness are normal. Vomiting, confusion or severe breathlessness are not — descend immediately.
- Discuss acetazolamide with your doctor before travelling, not after you arrive.
Practical details
- Only Indian postpaid SIMs work in Ladakh. Prepaid connections from other states do not.
- Fuel stations are sparse — fill up in Leh, Diskit and Karu.
- ATMs exist in Leh but can be unreliable. Carry cash.
- Accommodation outside Leh is simple: camps and homestays, often without heating.
- Nights are below freezing at Pangong and Tso Moriri even in July.
When to go
June to September is the practical season. May is possible if the passes have cleared. October is extraordinary for light and emptiness but bitterly cold at night and the passes can close suddenly. Winter is flights-only, and is its own specialist proposition — the Chadar trek and snow leopard expeditions.
Quick answers
Related questions
Which route to Leh is better, Srinagar or Manali?
Srinagar, for a first trip. It gains altitude gradually over two days with a night at Kargil, which is far safer than Manali's rapid climb over 5,000-metre passes.
How many days do you need for Ladakh?
Seven minimum if flying in, including two acclimatisation days in Leh. Ten to twelve if driving up and back.
Do I need permits for Ladakh?
Not for Leh itself, but Inner Line Permits are required for Nubra, Pangong, Tso Moriri, Turtuk and Changthang. They are issued in Leh and must name every destination.
